Pardon the radio silence, we’ve been non stop since Bologna
and Florence with little to no Wi-Fi. But we’re still alive and kicking;
although my body may beg to differ.
So since Bologna we went through the Appennine Mountains, a 6 day excursion totaling over
300km. I have had multiple breakdowns, tantrums, and seriously considered
flying home from Rome. I very much hope to stop the sniveling and anger and
reach a point of enjoyment that supersedes the pain I’ve been feeling. Looking
back thus far, I realize that starting a 5-month trip where the first two weeks
consist of extreme elevation climbs for several days might not have been the
best for breaking me in.
All that Yellow? Yeah, ranging from 0-3000+ feet. |
I could break down each day of going through the pass but
there would be a lot of me saying, “fuck this shit. I’m done”, “oh, this day was
better”, “crrryyyyyyyyyeeeee!!”, “yes, very pretty, now don’t talk to me”, and
my favorite “I can’t do this”. So needless to say, as with the hills and
mountains, there were lots of ups and downs for me.
In the first couple of days through the pass, we encountered
a town called Poretta Terme. A lovely little piece that reminded Dan and
myself of Bath, England; a Roman influence with a one or two imposing stone
towers and, of course, a church. It’s a small quiet place without a lot of
tourism, but the prices were still a bit high, so after one night we called it
and rode into Florence.
We decided to only spend a day in Florence. I’m finding
that with this trip thus far, we’re sort of rushing through towns and cities.
It’s been rewarding cycling through some villages, stopping for minor
exploration or a cappuccino, but for the most part I think the general feeling
is that we’re missing stuff. We’re having a hard time deciding when to haul up
or when to push on. We’ve hit a few cities that we most definitely want to
visit again. For me, it’s Bologna and Florence. I highly recommend saving up a
good amount of dough and spending a good 3-4 days in Florence. With it being the
birthplace of the Renaissance movement, there’s just so much to see, explore,
and with major name high end brand stores to shop. I’m on the hunt for some
dope leather driving gloves; the kind where you picture yourself gripping the
wheel of a sexy little Italian roadster driving through the Alps blaring White
Snake with the wind in your hair.
Florence is nestled in a valley so after we left our trek
took us through; you guessed it, more climbs. What made this one especially fun
was the weather, cold coupled with a healthy downpour. We managed to find
shelter in a very old vineyard in Greve Chianti, Castello Vicchimomaggio, and
had ourselves a little wine tasting of the local flora. I can honestly say that
thus far in the trip, even the cheapest bottles of wine we’ve encountered, have
been stellar. I have yet to have a bad glass of wine or coffee for that matter.
After that we settled in a small B&B down a long dirt road and enjoyed a
warm fire for the evening.
After Greve was Casciano di Murlo. Guess what? More
complaining. This by far was the worst of the climbing for me. Just a side
note, there were pros training on the first stretch from Greve into Siena, and here we are with many pounds
of gear in tow (I think a few of the Frenchies liked me, as I must’ve been the
only busty lady on a bike; or the kissy noises meant something else entirely). Getting
out of Greve to go through Siena, getting lost (a common occurrence for us on this trip) and
then taking hilly country dirt roads to find our campground at the top of a
very steep climb, a 10-hour ride took its toll on me. I could barely walk up
hills by the time we were done. And if I ever wanted to remember what it was
like to have diaper rash as a baby (trust me, I don’t), I pretty much got it
from my bike saddle.
Our last day of riding through the hills took us out the
last of the range for one last temper tantrum on my part and into Grosseto and
into a rather large hotel/resort after 80 km; I indulged in a bubble bath as a
much-earned reward. Today we’re in Grosseto waiting for a train to Rome. For
the time being, any major climbing is done for me and I am very much looking
forward to leisurely rides without the aid of padded ass shorts.
Sorry this post is so long and boring, just trying to get
caught up. Hopefully without having to do any major rides for a bit, I can be a
bit more regular, a lot more
descriptive, and a lot more positive, with my postings.
Hi Melissa,
ReplyDeleteWonderful, wonderful to discover your blog. Late to the party, but now subscribed. San Francisco is great, but now I must see Europe.
Cheers,
Andrew